A dirty car should be washed immediately.
Wash and dry the car not the sun. The spots of quick drying water is difficult to handle.
At the first stage of the outer surface of the body abundantly moistened with water, paying special attention to soak dead insects and dirt stains.
When cleaning use a soft sponge or a soft brush attachment to the hose.
To protect the paint can be added to the water washing the preservative.
Continuously flushing the body with water, wash pollution uniform motion from the roof down to the bottom.
Sponge or brush always wash water from the mud.
After clearing a small area of the body immediately wash the dirty brush strips with water.
Liberally wash the entire surface of the body with clean water to remove any residual detergent.
Do not use a "semi-dry" cleaning technology, one bucket of water on the entire car. Remains of dirt, dust and sand on a rag, sponge, brush heavily scratched cover the body, causing a mikrotsarapin.
After washing, wipe with a chamois car, allow to dry and canned immediately.
Purely washed and dried the body shall as often as possible to defend preservative to prevent the influence of paint on outside influences. Preserved by a waxy waterproof layer covering the closing of sun exposure and water.
Conservation should be carried out when the water is on the cover of the body is not going to drop, but spreads over a large surface. Regular conservation contributes to the fact that the longer retained the original color and gloss paint.
Another opportunity to give a conservation cleaning paint preservatives. However, detergent preservatives effectively protect the paint only when they are used at each car wash and cleaning if held not less than 2 - 3 weeks. Should apply only those preservatives that contain synthetic waxes. Preservatives are especially recommended after washing detergent. Conservation can not be carried out in the sun.
Cleaning the windows
Wipe glass windows with a soft clean cloth. If heavily soiled, alcohol or ammonia to help and warm water and a special wiper. Along with the sink to clean the windshield wiper.
Caring for upholstered seats
Fabric upholstery. Handle vacuum cleaner or a soft brush. For tough dirt, chemically cleaned in a dry foam. Grease and oil stains remove stain remover or pure gasoline. Cleanser should not be applied directly to tissue, as in this case there are traces on the edges. Spot treat in a circular motion from the outside inward. Other impurities are removed with warm soapy water. Heavy contamination are removed dry cleaning.
Corrosion control BODY
Probably the majority of motorists after purchasing a new or used car in second place after the anti-theft problem is the question of corrosion body.
For a new car, the bodywork is no corrosion and coating factory is - a new and clean, it measures a warning order. However, they give the maximum effect.
For a used car should proceed from the fact that his body is more or less impressed by corrosion and completely impossible to get rid of it. Therefore, in this case it is necessary to suspend its maximum effect and to protect unaffected sites.
The technology is traditional. Cleaned of dust and dirt wheel wells, underbody, arches and other elements of the surface underneath. Apply an additional layer of mastic on the surface of the wheel tires, and open cavities in the body for track wheels. Liquid drugs, preservatives, with spray handle cavities.
Available cavity (for example, the bottom of the doors from inside the trunk, in the area facing the front, etc.) are best treated with a brush. In this case the owners of foreign cars to solve the problem of the location of hidden cavities body (sills, side members, cross members, podkolesnye arc, box-shaped vertical rack, amplifier boards, etc.) and find the holes in these cavities.
If you are satisfied that any closed cavity has no holes, for example, cross front end, then you need to drill it - of course, from the inside (from the engine compartment).
It must be borne in mind that on some cars in the manufacture of cavities filled with foam rubber-like body mass. Such a cavity should be left alone. All the fasteners from the bottom and in the engine compartment is useful to handle a preservative.
We will not consider here the case when there is a pass-through corrosion and requires body repair, including welding.
The amount of work to protect against corrosion depends on the condition of the body, enthusiasm and patience of the owner. It is best to use tilter - rack or pit less convenient.
conduct an audit covering wheel tires, bottom, front-facing and other available for inspection;
peeled, damaged and generally suspicious cover, not wishing to withdraw. At the same time pay special attention to the joints of the elements, half-cavity, where the accumulated dirt;
Wash the vehicle floor, wheel wells and all elements of the body from the bottom up to the complete removal of contaminants. Pay attention to the places where dirt can accumulate (half-cavity, flanging, joints, shelves, etc.);
from all exposed metal seat covers clean tools (scrapers, brushes, etc.);
in accordance with the instructions to the processing of drugs such as "rust converter";
degrease the treated surfaces and all the rest of the body surface;
cover with soil and dry thoroughly;
cover with mastic in accordance with the instructions on its use of the entire bottom of the body. Next on the particular weak spots you can go and liquid preservatives, which are discussed below.
However, even after the most careful of this work, you will not get rid of corrosion. You only their significantly reduce, and causing coverage - to slow down their development. However, the more thoroughly carried out this work, the further postponed car body repair.
Inside the car:
Carefully inspect the body surface under the mat in the trunk, in the engine compartment;
remove the damaged mastic and paint to bare metal;
metal processing, as is the case with the head;
cover with soil, paint, if desired - apply a protective layer of mastic.
The outer surface of the car:
thoroughly inspect the exterior body panels;
remove the swelling of paint, clean cracks and chips;
check the status of the coating and the metal in places where the paint body changed its hue (not due to touch-up);
assess the condition of the outer surface of the body and make a decision - to repaint the whole body is completely or restrict touch-up;
In the latter case to clean bare metal all the defects, etched and carefully degreased;
Metal cover with soil;
all primed to embellish the place specially selected for color and tint paint;
Dry and polish the surface.
For a closed cavity:
open and clean all the holes;
Rinse the cavity closed pressurized water, or blow compressed air to dry for 1 2 days in summer;
treated with liquid preservatives by using nebulizer.
Modern methods of
Currently, technology is increasingly used to combat corrosion, developed by Canadian firm "Consolidated Anticorrosion Technologies" (CAT). The method is called "Rust-Stop". Liquids "Rust-Stop" have an extremely high penetration: get into the gap, go through the layers of rust and even through the old asphalt and wax coatings - to clean metal.
These liquids repel water. The drug always comes to healthy metal reacts with it to form a stable zaschitnokonserviruyuschy layer, which can only be destroyed by mechanical action.
Manufacturer CAT after the double processing of new car technology "Rust-Stop" gives lifetime guarantee. The technology is certified in Sweden. Therefore, protecting the bottom of the machine mastic from mechanical impact, and then treating it with liquid "Rust-Stop", we get fairly good protection against corrosion.
Disadvantages of this method are as follows:
To cover "Rust-Stop" is very poorly fit other types of coverage - for example, mastic;
remove cover "Rust-Stop" to the pure metal is practically impossible;
the cost of processing the car - 180-250 $, ie, relatively expensive.
Labels: Russian cars